Managing Facial Redness: Cosmetic Ingredients to Consider in Cleansers and Moisturizers

Facial redness, either over larger areas of the face or as localized “blotchiness,” is a common occurrence found in several skin concerns including rosacea, psoriasis, various types of dermatitis (such as contact skin irritation, eczema, and seborrheic dermatitis), and stress-induced physiologic flushing. Facial redness is characterized by a localized trigger of the skin’s inflammatory process and blood-vessel dilation. Naturopathy can help mitigate facial redness with dietary adjustments such as an anti-inflammatory diet and determining/avoiding food triggers,[i] herbal medicines such as those functioning as “alteratives” in the support of skin health, and nutritional supplements with antioxidants and anti-inflammatory ingredients to provide nutritional support for the skin barrier. Apart from internal methods, topical cosmeceuticals can be a key component in managing redness as well. Categories of cosmeceutical ingredients often used for facial redness include mucilage-containing products for barrier protection, naturally occurring anti-inflammatory ingredients, barrier-strengthening ingredients, and polyphenol antioxidants from green tea and other herbal sources. This article will focus on important ingredients in skin-care products to consider with facial redness. The information presented can then be discussed with your local health-care provider.

Nourishing the Skin’s Barrier

Supporting our skin’s barrier function is key to prevent facial redness. A strong skin barrier offers the best protection against triggers that provoke inflammation in the skin. The skin barrier is much like the bricks and mortar protecting the outer layer of a house: It contains nondividing cells called corneocytes (the bricks) and a lipid matrix helping to bind the corneocytes together (the mortar). The lipid matrix is made up of ceramides (structurally heterogeneous and complex lipids that ensure good cohesion between skin cells), fatty acids, and cholesterol. The skin barrier needs regular maintenance—and what better way to do so than by “restocking” it with these very raw materials themselves? Topically, this is where ceramide-containing skin-care products come in, as they are found across a variety of skin-care products including moisturizers, cleansing bars, liquid-based body and facial cleansers, and even makeup-removing products. Like the lipid matrix, skin-care products contain fatty acids and cholesterol. Given this wide array of ceramide-containing products now on the market, it would be beneficial to consider such options for the product categories we discuss next.

What to Look for in a Cleanser

When looking for a cleanser to use with facial redness, there are two key aspects to consider: First, a product that will remove dirt, debris, and sebum from the skin, without stripping away components needed to maintain barrier function; and second, a cleanser with the least irritable ingredients that can trigger inflammation, either directly or indirectly by leaving behind residues after rinsing. Given the high degree of sensitivity with facial redness, syndets (a hypoallergenic “soap-free” synthetic detergent gentler on the skin than conventional soaps) are the preferred option in most cases, particularly those labelled for sensitive skin, as they achieve both the above goals.[ii] Additionally, syndets are also formulated with moisturizing ingredients to help replenish skin moisture. Cleansers are meant to exfoliate the skin, but have no therapeutic value for facial redness, as opposed to moisturizers, which contain the ingredients of value. For more complex skin conditions, such as rosacea, the typical “combination skin” pattern may best be managed using a combination of soap for the oily sections of the skin and a syndet or an oil-free cleanser for the dry sections.[iii]

To Tone or not to Tone?

The function of a toner is to further remove excess sebum from oil-rich areas and to tighten the skin. They are designed to evaporate quickly from the face and contain ingredients with an astringent effect. Unfortunately, both these effects can act as a sensory stimulus to trigger flushing and redness. As such, it is not recommended to use toners and astringents with facial redness.[iv]

What to Look for in a Moisturizer or Redness-Management Product

A moisturizer or a standalone redness-reduction product will be the most important product for skin health and facial redness. One tip to keep in mind is that cream-based moisturizers are preferred over lotions, which can have an astringent effect. Also, lotions contain a higher water-to-chemical ratio, having the potential to leave residues on the skin that could be potential triggers or irritants. Cream-based moisturizers have higher ratios of fatty acids, fat, etc. that are the most like the skin’s natural barrier.[v] A ceramide-containing moisturizer has the most effect on barrier function, as it brings some of the core structural components of the skin’s matrix. The following ingredients are best avoided if in any moisturizer: propylene glycol, glycolic acid, salicylic acid, strong fragrances, tea-tree essential oil, curcumin, witch hazel (due to its astringent effect), and vitamins A and C.[vi] In general, it is recommended to utilize products labelled for sensitive skin. The following are other ingredients to look for that can be beneficial for facial redness.

• Allantoin: Originally derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is considered a skin-soothing and protective agent. It is frequently added to products designed for sensitive skin. It is believed to improve barrier function by enhancing water-binding capacity in the skin.[vii] Preliminary evidence shows anti-inflammatory and antioxidant benefits as well.[viii]
• Chamomile and its Bisabolol Component: Bisabolol is one of the main anti-inflammatory compounds in chamomile. It has been found to specifically inhibit both the cyclooxygenase (COX) and lipoxygenase (LOX) inflammatory pathways. It is often used as an isolated ingredient in formulas. Alternatively, the whole chamomile extract is also used topically as its other antioxidant components also help reduce inflammation and redness.[ix]
• Panthenol (Provitamin B5): Panthenol acts as a moisturizer and supports the skin barrier via its involvement in the production of lipid matrix fats.[x]
• Aloe: Possessing a popular historical use in the topical treatment of minor wounds and burns, the mucilaginous aloe plant can help protect and sooth the skin. Various constituents are believed to account for aloe’s anti-inflammatory properties, like salicylate components that have a direct inhibition of the cyclooxygenase pathway; also, magnesium lactate may help reduce itching by suppressing histamine production; thromboxane inhibitors help reduce pain; and polysaccharides can modulate the localized immune response.[xi] As with any topical preparation, testing first on a small area of skin is used to determine tolerability.
• Green-Tea Polyphenol Antioxidants: Considered to be among the most potent and effective topical anti-inflammatory agents, the polyphenol group of antioxidants present in green tea, including epigallocatechin‑3‑gallate (EGCG), have been shown to reduce UV‑induced redness, swelling, antioxidant depletion, and cellular DNA damage in the skin.[xii] Made from the unfermented leaves of Camellia sinensis, the same leaves which yield black tea when fully fermented, it may provide a key component in facial redness management strategies.
• Niacinamide: This unique form of vitamin B3 (flush-free) is believed to help reduce facial redness via its ability to strengthen the skin barrier by increasing production of its lipid matrix and structural protein components, including ceramides, keratin, and filaggrin. Human studies have found that niacinamide-treated skin can reduce the facial redness and blotching associated with irritation due to SLS (as above) and trans-retinoic acid (prescribed form of topical vitamin A).[xiii]

Sunscreen Selection Tip

Sunscreens are a first line in preventing UV‑induced facial redness.[xiv] In selecting a sunscreen product, certain considerations must be kept in mind. Per the moisturizer section above, thicker lotions or cream-based products may be preferred to reduce the irritant potential from evaporation of the products’ water content from the skin; ceramide-containing sunscreen can provide the added benefit of barrier support; a product labelled for sensitive skin is preferred; and it may be wise to consider sunscreens containing “physical sunscreen” ingredients, such as zinc oxide over other “chemical sunscreen” ingredients such as homosalate, methyl anthranilate, octyl methoxycinnamate, and octocrylene, among others. The rationale here is that chemical sunscreens absorb UV‑light radiation and transform them into heat, which can trigger flushing and redness. Physical sunscreens, however, simply reflect the UV radiation, thus sparing the skin of any sensory trigger for redness.[xv]

Disclaimer: The information presented in this article is for general information purposes only and does not constitute medical advice. Please first review with your personal health-care provider what therapeutic approaches and products would be best for your case.